Bye Diesel, Hi Maison Margiela: Glenn Martens is Maison Margiela’s new Creative Director

Glenn Martens has been officially appointed Creative Director of Maison Margiela, succeeding John Galliano, who shaped the house over the past ten years. Under Galliano, Margiela achieved great success – from the iconic Tabi shoes to the highly acclaimed Artisanal SS24 show, which was even exhibited in Tokyo last November.

Belgian designer Glenn Martens is known for his avant-garde silhouettes and creative approach to denim – a distinct style he has also brought to his role as Creative Director at Diesel, a position he will retain for the time being. So if Diesel’s designs have caught your eye in recent years or the stores have suddenly seemed much more inviting, it’s because of him. Martens took over the brand in 2020, infusing it with a breath of fresh, totally unexpected air.

What do Maison Margiela and Diesel have in common? Both are part of the OTB Group, an international fashion conglomerate that also oversees Jil Sander, Marni, and Viktor&Rolf. According to OTB Chairman Renzo Rosso, Margiela is entering an exciting new era. One he eagerly anticipates, as stated in the official press release. But what exactly can we expect?

Martens first gained recognition while working at Y/Project, where he redefined contemporary fashion with his conceptual, deconstructive designs, emphasizing unusual proportions and innovative cuts. A standout moment in his career was his 2022 collaboration with Jean Paul Gaultier, which blended his architectural approach with Gaultier's playful rebellion and theatricality.

This connection to deconstruction also seems to make him a strong fit for Maison Margiela. Founded in 1988 by Martin Margiela, the label is also renowned for its avant-garde aesthetic: From exposed seams to its signature Tabi boots, which look as if they’ve been freshly dipped in white paint. Both Martens’ work and Margiela’s past designs share a penchant for the unconventional, creating pieces that may seem unfinished at first glance but are now considered must-haves in the fashion industry.

Whether it’s truly the perfect match remains to be seen. However, the conditions certainly seem promising. It’s still unclear when Martens’ first collection for Maison Margiela will debut – we’ll keep you updated.